As I mentioned yesterday, it is a bit cool again – though not as cold as it was last time around. I feel that, within reason, I am accommodating local practices around dressing for the season. Once the temperature began to drop into the 70s in November, folks started wearing sweaters and jackets, long sleeves, heavy pants and boots. Thus, although most days my children would be quite comfortable in a short-sleeved shirt and some lightweight pants or even shorts, I almost never put them in short-sleeves and they always wear long pants and, usually, a sweatshirt, too. Despite my efforts when it comes to what I consider overdressing the kids, I receive consistent reprimands and disapproving looks from parents, teachers, grandparents, the servers at our favorite restaurant, etc, etc.

“Isn’t she cold?” they ask in Chinese, sometimes testing the shirt between their fingers and shaking their heads in disbelief once they determine that the layers are too thin.
“I’m not cold!” replies Mei-mei, “I’m Mei-mei.”

One of the things I find particularly amusing in that frustrating culturally-misplaced kind of way is that, even if Mei-mei were cold, the way I would choose to dress her would be considered inappropriate.

In the U.S. we learned that we need to keep the heat in the core. So, when it is cold, we pile on multiple layers – many consisting of thin synthetic materials, often without long sleeves. We also put on hats to avoid loss of heat. Here in Guangzhou, the supposed warming power of clothing appears to be directly linked to the thickness. Thus, on the coolest days children are walking around in these padded cotton clothes which look like someone made a jacket and pants out of their favorite comforter – little arms and legs sticking out and partially immobilized by the loft. You see very few hats and, while children are required to wear their coats in the classroom on cold days, hats are actively discouraged. In addition, arm warmers are all the rage here. While a vest might be a first line of defense at home, here the arm warmers come out at the first hint of cooling temperatures. Arm warmers are short single-layer polyester tubes with elastics on both ends. They are pulled over the forearm and end at the elbow.

I don’t think these different styles are just random. I actually think they point to differences in the way people conceive of health and fitness in South China and the States. I have noticed that there is so much emphasis on circulation here – the healthy flow of blood, energy, etc through the body as opposed to an American emphasis on core processes. Yet when I see such stark differences in best-practices, I wonder about the ramifications. Is one system more correct or effective or, perhaps, it doesn’t matter in the least? Either way, it is sometimes difficult to overcome or, at least, disguise my disdain (arm warmers!?) in the face of different practices at the same time that it is tough to sense others’ disapproval of my way of doing things.

This past weekend I met with the chair of the sociology department here. The meeting went well and I was introduced to a graduate student working in Guangzhou’s substantial African immigrant community. He is going to take me out into the field with him so I can start poking around. I am looking forward to it!

As for next semester, however, instead of teaching an undergraduate course in American Race Relations, I am teaching a graduate seminar in Cultural Sociology. Yikes! I don’t have any of the materials I need and I don’t even have a library card yet so I have no way of determining what I can get my hand on here and what books I need to order from www.betterworldbooks.com! On top of that, the expectation is that I will assign only limited reading and lecture for a significant portion of the weekly 2.5 hour class. This seminar is clearly going to push the limits of my teaching experience but is also great preparation for future teaching – especially in Cultural Sociology.

Sorry… it’s been busy. We have folks in town and have been doing a fair amount of hosting. It is nice to have the opporunity to show people around and get a sense of how our life here looks to fresh eyes.

It’s just started raining – the atmosphere dumping the humidity in preparation for another cold spell. A high tomorrow only the high 50s while it has been in the high 70s for the past couple of weeks. I know that you folks back in Vermont are having real winter weather at last, but when everything is drafty and nothing is heated 56 degress and cloudy is cold, particularly since the cooler night-time temperatures turn the tiles covering the floors and many of the walls into little ice packs that keep the apartment even colder than the day-time high. Fortunately, we are taking our solstice trip to Hong Kong this weekend – skipping a good portion of the cold snap. It won’t be any warmer in HK but presumably the hotel will have heat.

My cooking lesson has been rescheduled for a later date but I will definitely bring fruit and, if I get to the import store before then, some seasonally appropriate American item. Thanks, Janna!

I’m actually making some progress with the language. In the last few days I have held things that kind of resemble conversations – picking up a few words and aided by contextual clues and gestures, I piece together what the other person is saying and then am able to offer a few words and gestures in response that the other person is able to decipher. Let me reconstruct and translate a conversation I had yesterday. I am particularly proud of it on account of the fact that it was a rather lengthy exchange for someone who didn’t speak a word of the language 4 months ago and because there was only 1 word (semester) that I did not know.

Mei-mei and I are outside looking at the goldfish in the pond. One of the security guards walks by.

GD: Good morning? Hello little sister (to Mei-mei)!

ME: Good morning!

GD: Ah… pretty (talking about Mei-mei)

ME: Thank you.

GD: Does she speak Mandarin?

ME: She understands a little. She is shy.

GD: Where is big sister?

ME: She is at kindergtarten. She speaks Mandarin very well.

GD: Little sister is too small for kindergarten? How old?

ME: 2 1/2. She will begin at kindergarten in March. (in English) Next semester.

GD: How old is big sister?

ME: She’s 4.

GD: OK. Goodbye.

ME: Goodbye.

Today life seems to be taking on a frenetic pace – feeling more like we are back in Vermont where there is too much fun to be had and less like the rather unscheduled and somewhat empty hours that had been characterizing life here (not a complaint, really, just an observation about how different life is when you are in a new place with very few connections to the people and institutions surrounding you).

First, there are Law School folks in town. Although we haven’t seen them yet, we have been in increasing contact regarding their arrival for the last few weeks. In the last 2 days we have moved, in typical Chinese fashion, into the making/cancelling/rescheduling phase of the visit. We hope to see them tomorrow.

We also received a bundle of boxes from folks back in the States (5 packages today alone!). Jie-jie and Mei-mei have received new ballerina and mermaid dress-up clothes, doll clothes, picture and coloring books, clothes, necklaces and bracelets, and a host of organic snacks from aunts, uncles, grandparents and great grandparents. Jason is all set to make pancakes for breakfast Saturday, including Vermont Maple Syrup, and I have a new pillow when I read in bed – a big stuffed animal lobster who goes by the name Fundy. Thanks, everyone!

Finally, we have our first invitation to get together with the family of one of the other children in Jie-jie’s class – really the first such invitation of any kind. The premise of the event is so that I can learn to make Hong Dou Gao (Sweet Red Bean Cake). I think the parent in question has been trying to invite me for the longest time. Today I finally understood in Chinese “Sweet Red Bean Cake Cook Study What Time?” but I wasn’t confident – especially when my suggestion that Sunday would work was not understood (there are 2 ways to say Sunday but one, Xingtiri, is very hard for me to pronounce). So, fortunately, a grandpa of one of the other students, an oceanographer with passable English, came over and engaged in lengthy negotiations on my behalf. I had to offer a few responses regarding what cooking supplies I had (apparently not sufficient), when we were available, how we would get to their place (once it was determined I didn’t have the necessary kitchen tools), how would we find their place, and what subsection of “we” would be in attendance. The rest of the 10 minutes it took to sort everything out, the grandpa and my closest-thing-to-a-friend were talking at length but in the end, grandpa just turned to me and said, “That would be fine. Saturday at 3 she will meet you on her bicycle and you will all ride to her apartment. The whole family of 4.” I offered a grateful Xie-xie (thank you) to them both. I am quite excited about the invitation although wonder how in the world we are going to communicate that day since I speak less Chinese than a 2 year old. On top of it, I think that usually she is speaking Cantonese. [Aside: I wish that folks acknowledged the fact that Cantonese is the lingua franca in GZ instead of glossing over China's tremendous language diversity because that makes it tough for someone trying to learn to communicate in everyday situations.] We teach in English. We need language skills for the rest of life. Finally, what should I bring, how long should we expect to stay, will we eat dinner with them, should we offer a reciprocal engagement right away, what are the must and must-not behaviors, etc, etc? Are you out there, Janna? Help!

and investigative and decision-making methods matter!
Did you read this NYT article about Obama’s Afghanistan strategy? http://www.nytimes.com/2009/12/06/world/asia/06reconstruct.html The U.S. has a President who asks tough questions, listens to competing opinions, and seeks to make the right choice first and deal with political interests second. I hope he can turn around the messes he has inherited.

I brought Jie-jie into kindergtarten Wednesday to see that the room was decorated with garland and a small artificial Christmas tree with ornaments and lights. Lao-SHUH Mai (Teacher Mai) informed me that the children are asked to bring in their own Christmas tree from home. I was surprised and a bit annoyed. I mean, the kids have already brought in their own plants (we bought a cactus), their bunnies, turtles, and goldfish (we declined), and empty food boxes and bottles for the play grocery store they set up in the room (they appreciated the American organic fruit snacks and mac n cheese boxes – the little grocery now has its own import section). Now we need to go out and buy a Christmas tree even though we don’t even celebrate the holiday?

Lao-SHUH Mai then asked if we would be traveling home for Christmas. I told her, no, it is too expensive. Why didn’t I tell her that we don’t celebrate Christmas? Because, I’ve tried that on other Chinese folks and it doesn’t really go over that well – I decided it was best not to make Jie-jie’s teachers suspicious of her American-ness.

I learned my lessons in this regard with Xiao Ying,  my language tutor (and at this ex-pat “holiday” party we attended last weekend – it will get its own post). Xiao Ying asked when we met this week if I would be missing lessons around Christmas.

“No.” I replied, “We will be here.” Our lesson centered on times and dates. In studying the vocabulary, I had paid little attention to the word for Christmas – figuring that Chinese New Year would be a more important word. Contrary to my expectations, the tutor had developed a Christmas-themed lesson. She wanted to talk about what date Christmas is, what I do on that date and at what times, etc.

Finally, I said, “Actually, we don’t celebrate Christmas.” Xiao Ying’s mouth dropped open and her head started bobbing up and down with the shock of it.

“What…? I don’t understand. Isn’t it the most important American festival. Isn’t it a very large celebration?”

“Well, it is big. Many, most, Americans celebrate Christmas but not everyone – it is not surprising in the U.S. if you do not celebrate.”

“But why? I do not understand?”

“Well, for some people with different religions, they do not recognize Christmas because it is a religous holiday. But then some people who ARE Christians don’t celebrate it because they think the meaning of the holiday is lost to all the shopping and, you know, the whole business aspect of things. And for us, we don’t have the religious beliefs and we also don’t like the all the money-making and consumerism…” and at this point she was looking nonplussed and I was blushing with the absurdity of it all.

Fortunately, Xiao Ying bailed me out. “It is the same in China for many festivals,” she replied. “People forget the meaning and just worry about making money or having time off from work.”

I was grateful for the rescue but, all the same, wonder why in the U.S. we can’t all get together and have a collective holiday that isn’t contested. Sure, we’ve got a culture that values dissent, democratic squabbling, and multidinous cultural/religious traditions but sometimes there is something to be said for a place where people take their individual selves a little less seriously and put more emphasis on staying in step with one another despite their differences. As I don’t think any of our existing holidays would manage to get buy in from all consituentcies, what about a new holiday, “The Day of Collective Effervescence,” perhaps, or “Uncontested Community Day?”

I disclosed earlier that we are having a bit of trouble getting Mei-mei into school on account of some abnormal medical tests. Although all the medical practitioners involved in the case agree that she is healthy and has no contagious diseases endangering the other school children, the doctor with the power to give her medical clearance for school asserts that “rules are RULES” and, thus, no clearance is forthcoming. My negotiations with the medical establishment fizzled, I resolved to move on to school and university administration. Initially I thought I would just speak to the school folks myself, explaining that I would have the medical clearance within a few months and counting on them to let her start school. The problem is that they don’t really speak English and I don’t really speak Chinese. Once I realized I was going to have to have someone speaking for me, I decided that I would just ask an important person that is involved with our visit.

That was over a week ago and I had not heard whether or not the important person is willing to speak to the school – much less whether or not the school will let Mei-mei in. I ran into the principal today and she asked when Mei-mei would start. I explained that I was having trouble with medical clearance but perhaps Mei-mei could start without it. She made a face that to me suggested that I had asked for the moon and said no.

Now that I have time to reflect on the whole situation, I realize that I have likely made a mistake by making these requests and wonder how it will play out. Is it shocking and completely inappropriate that I have asked explicitly to be excepted from the rules? Will my request to have the important person take up my cause be met with stony and potentially face-saving silence? This is most likely. Or, the failure of Mei-mei to get in to the kindergarten being construed as a problem of international relations, has the important person taken the issue to even more important people and is my request working its way up the chain until Mei-mei gets special dispensation to attend kindergarten from the Provincial governor herself? I am quite concerned that I have committed some cross-cultural faux pas and I worry that I have made the issue too big and run the risk of causing trouble for other people and compromising relationships.

The frustrating thing is, if I had been thinking a bit more clearly, I might have realized that a successful first strategy could have been the one I most deplore: asserting my Western privilege to be an exception and remain (or pretend to be) gloriously ignorant of the rules and the language. This strategy works when you look like me and are walking in and out of stores with your backpacks while everyone else is either checking their bags or having them searched. I also used it to get into one of the campus libraries one time even though I do not have the required campus card – just sailed right by the security check without giving them a glance and tried to look like I had a right to do so. I am sure that my Western privilege works in a lot of other ways that are invisible to me.

In the case of Mei-mei’s schooling, instead of canceling my registration meeting in the face of abnormal test results, if I had showed up with child in tow, waving my tuition money and pooh-poohing the required medical forms, saying something like, “Oh, we will get those to you soon. We are so excited to start! Let’s take Mei-mei to meet her teacher and classmates” I suspect that I might have easily had a month before the principal asked the teacher to remind me of the problem of medical clearance.

I’ve updated our Places: Already Visited page.  See  http://vermont2china.wordpress.com/places-already-visited/.

Our neighborhood recycling corner…Every weekend all the recyclable trash is on display. It is collected, sorted, bundled, and picked up by numerous bikes with trailers.

I have a language tutor. But now that Jie-jie is getting pretty good with the Chinese, some of my best lessons come from her. Today I learned that “Bu ge ni wanr!” means I don’t want to play with you. Important stuff.

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